Name: Marc Jacobs on Louis Vuitton, Anna Wintour, Pharrell, The Met, Daisy Perfume
Uploaded: 2024-10-28T14:00:00Z
Duration: 8 min 4 s
Description: Fashion designer Marc Jacobs reflects on his iconic collections, working with Pharrell Williams, and Anna Wintour’s advice during his struggle with addiction in The Job Interview with WSJ. Magazine.

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Fashion designer Marc Jacobs reflects on his iconic collections, working with Pharrell Williams, and Anna Wintour’s advice during his struggle with addiction in The Job Interview with WSJ. Magazine. Photo: Will Chilton

https://m.wsj.net/video/20241025/ba72f801-9e18-48ef-bdcc-d50f5e06b2ae/1/hls/manifest-hd-wifi.m3u8

Fashion designer Marc Jacobs reflects on his iconic collections, working with Pharrell Williams, and Anna Wintour’s advice during his struggle with addiction in The Job Interview with WSJ. Magazine.

Marc Jacobs on Louis Vuitton, Anna Wintour, Pharrell, The Met, Daisy Perfume

I want to do something, whatever it is that people love or hate, it's indifferent, or it's okay, or it's fine. Just doesn't, it's not a place I want to go. Hi, Nikki. Yeah, click, don't clap.

Interviewer: Mark, you have quite a career, the youngest designer to ever win the CFDA Perry Ellis Award, creative director at Perry Ellis at 25, had your own namesake label before 30. Not to mention you were the artistic director of Louis Vuitton for 16 years.

Yes.

Interviewer: What's the secret? How do you get people to trust your vision?

I don't know. I think I've been very fortunate to meet people who believe in me, and who not only believe in me, but when things get rough, stand by me. So that's just been incredible luck.

Interviewer: When do you feel like your career really began?

I started at pursuing my interest in fashion at a boutique called Charivari on the Upper West Side in working as a stock boy and then a salesperson. I met a lot of people in the fashion industry, in the New York, you know, kind of fashion industry. So when the Parson show happened and I met Robert Duffy, I was kind of in tune with how it all worked.

Interviewer: Tell me about the first time you met Anna Wintour.

Well, she probably wouldn't remember this, but the first time I met her, I was working at Charavari. I was probably 18 years old, and I was like, oh, wow, that's Anna Wintour. She's this big fashion editor. But that was kind of it. And I probably said hello, and she probably was polite, and then went about whatever she was doing. And that was our first meeting.

Interviewer: How has that relationship evolved?

I mean, a lot of people say a lot of things about Anna, but I think she has an incredibly kind heart. I know that when I was struggling with addiction, she, you know, she took me to lunch and very, in Anna form, she was like, why don't you learn to play tennis or something, you know, like, as an alternative to doing drugs, which I just smiled about, you know? It was like, bless her heart. Yeah, if it were only that easy. But she was helpful and, you know, somebody I respect. So I was willing to, I had the ability to hear her, you know. In terms of fashion, she has a very strong vision and she gets it done.

Interviewer: Let's talk about Perry Ellis. How do you reflect on your famous grunge collection there?

My first collection there I was very excited about, and I felt it really referenced the spirit in which I felt Perry and his team had. And a lot of people didn't like it, which is fine, but Anna Wintour had just moved to Vogue. She and her team did. And so it felt like the old guard who was, you know, sort of all about what Perry had become, felt very differently than the New Guard, which felt like, doesn't really matter. We like what he's doing kind of thing. And so I guess I tried to please people who felt that it should be more adult and more about clothes that people wear and whatever. And that was just a losing battle. So I gave up on that battle. And that of course led to this confidence about doing a collection that I felt was inspired by what is now called grunge, or the grunge scene. And also the types of models that people were interested in. You know, like Kate Moss and photographers, like Jurgen Teller, David Sims, Corin Day. People loved it and people hated it. And I really kind of enjoyed that reaction, you know, I thought, well, that's what I always want to do.

Interviewer: Off the runway, you've had a lot of different eras in your own personal style. Which one felt the most like who you are?

All those eras of mine feel very authentic to me. They feel like where I'm at at that time.

Interviewer: What era are you in right now?

I think we're on my nail journey. What is that? I never know the name of that thing where you have the magnifying glass on your Instagram, what you know, and you can look at like, you get things.

Interviewer: Oh, the Explore page.

Yeah, explore page. So this thing came up and it was this young boy with very, very long nails, and he was acting really sassy and clicking his nails, and doing kind of stuff like that. And I just thought like, that's so much fun. That's so cool. I really want to do that for the Met. Like, I want to wear Long Nails for the Met, which goes back to young me watching my mother or her friends putting on their makeup, getting their nails done, or Barbara Streisand with Long Nails, or seeing, you know, Lil Kim. Missy. I mean, there's just so many references to long nails, but it wasn't something that like I could do. And I thought, that, I can do that and I'm gonna do that, and I'm gonna have fun with it. And so I did my first, you know, foray into the nail, long nail, world for the Met. I always try to find a way to make the Met fun for me. And again, usually the answer is always, what am I gonna wear? What am I gonna do? How am I gonna cut my hair? Like, it's gotta be something, like my version of like getting dressed up for the Met, you know?

Interviewer: The black lace dress.

Yes, for instance.

Interviewer: Pharrell calls Louis Vuitton the house that you built.

I love Pharrell. He's very sweet. Pharrell believes truly that I gave him an opportunity that, you know, there just weren't people around that would do that. I don't give what I do or what me and my team did quite as much, you know, volume. I think I just did what I thought was right.

Interviewer: While at Vuitton, you had some of the most iconic collaborations with artists. What inspired those collaborations?

I'm so often in my head, and I was struggling really in the beginning with Vuitton to find a logic for why I was there and what we were doing. And so I kind of, I looked at a period in time, the '20s and '30s, there was a creative kind of exchange between artists like AU and designers like Capparelli or Picasso, Chanel, that felt very European. This idea of a society of creative people who worked with each other and exchanged ideas. And so I thought, well, maybe that's it. Maybe my role here, as I'm not Louis Vuitton, I'm Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton. Maybe the idea is that I bring in people and I exchange ideas with them, and together we make something happen.

Interviewer: Who is one artist from that time that you would like to collaborate with again?

Takashi Murakami. Takashi was really, really, really special in the work that we did. The way he described it. He would call it catch ball, I think, where it was like, I would throw an idea, he would throw me back his idea, and then I would throw back like my feelings about his idea. And it went back and forth and back and forth, which I love, 'cause that to me is really a collaboration. I mean, I would love to collaborate with Stephen Sprouse, but he's no longer here. We are doing a collaboration with his brother or his family 'cause Stephen had gifted me a piece that we've been using.

Interviewer: We talked a lot about your time in Paris, but in New York you were also running your own label. Why do both?

Well, I couldn't turn down the opportunity of doing Louis Vuitton, and I did at the time love my time in Paris. I loved living there. And I think there was this thing about being, you know, American or from New York. I just thought like, well, that's it. You know, a young New Yorker working in Paris at this legendary house.

Interviewer: Your own label has now expanded into beauty and fragrance with Daisy becoming really a household name.

Yeah.

Interviewer: Can you tell me a little bit of the story of Daisy's creation?

I had a dog named Daisy, who is named after Daisy Buchanan in "The Great Gatsby," my favorite book. And then I thought about what a daisy represented, and it's a flower that doesn't have a smell. It represents a spirit. So it was very easy for me to create the world of Daisy, you know, it was outdoors. It had like a kind of freedom to it. And then we worked on the fragrance. The woman, I don't remember her name, who was the nose, you know, tried to again, capture the story, this romantic story I was telling in a fragrance. But, you know, all I want to do is create a story.

Interviewer: Why do you do what you do?

I like being constantly curious. I like refusing in some ways to get old. The idea of age not mattering. And I think at the end of the day, I do what I do because I love it. And it's not just for you. It's like, this is for me too.

Marc Jacobs Talks Anna Wintour, Pharrell and His Many Artist Collaborations

Cultural icons explain how they started out and then climbed their way to the top.

Marc Jacobs Talks Anna Wintour, Pharrell and His Many Artist Collaborations

The Job Interview

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